Posts by ricardo

I found this with AI which is also helping learn more about this area in horology.

Movement Identification

The Serial Number Location: Ignore the case number entirely. Look for the serial number stamped directly on the movement plates inside.

• American Movements: Plug the movement serial number and manufacturer name (e.g., Waltham, Elgin, Illinois, Hamilton) into the online Pocket Watch Database. It instantly provides the exact production year, grade, and size (e.g., 18s, 16s, 12s).
• Swiss & European Movements: Often unbranded. Match the shape of the bridges and the unique layout of the winding click-work under the dial using historical reference catalogs like Bestfit or Marshall.

I also known has Die.Hard or Rick, I am in prime age and from UK, I was in circus for a few years, sold toys, and been through the mental health system. Now ten years onward growing into someone unrecognizable.

Let's begin!

Remember this about me you trust me, I trust you, respect me and I will respect you. I will never ask you for money or ask to meet up if we ever did we meet up it will specially arrange.

Man, that makes so much sense. I feel way better about tackling this now.

Ah! So if air got trapped inside a leaky watch, it will now try to escape because the outside pressure is dropping?

Okay, it’s all put together. How do I actually know it’s water-resistant? Do I just drop it in a glass of water?

So how much do you actually use?

Speaking of leaking, let’s talk gaskets. I see people slathering silicone grease all over caseback O-rings. Is more better?

Do I just smash it in?

Good tips. Now, what about the crystal? I need to press a new sapphire crystal into this case. I have a hand-lever crystal press, but I’m scared I’m going to crack the glass.

And if it’s screwed down by a gorilla?

Just getting the case open without scratching it! I have a screw-down caseback on this dive watch, and my three-pronged wrench keeps slipping. I’m terrified I’m going to gouge the steel.

Alright @quality if your still online I wanted to ask you this, I need some help. I finally got my movement serviced and running perfectly. But honestly? Putting it back in the case and making sure it's actually waterproof terrifies me more than the gear train. Where do I even start?

Why can't a mechanical watch just run forever without being touched?

Working on vintage pocket watch movements is a highly technical discipline that blends micro-engineering with historical preservation. Unlike modern watches with standardized parts, antique pocket watches present unique challenges because they were often hand-finished or built using obsolete sizing systems.

Here is a breakdown of the common problems watchmakers encounter and how they navigate identification, sourcing, and repairs.

Now this is always important question does reluming a watch affect its market value?

Definitely. A Unitas is a great movement to practise on before tackling smaller automatics.

Learn the basics on the big movements, then move onto the 2824 or SW200. Much less frustrating!

That’s pretty much where I’m landing.

I think ETA still carries a certain reputation because of its history and the sheer number of watches that used those calibres, but for somebody actually assembling or repairing watches today, **parts availability and future serviceability** matter enormously.

The Unitas family is what really interests me for learning, though.

With something like a **6497 or 6498**, everything feels less cramped. You can actually follow the gear train visually and understand what each component is doing. I can see why those movements became popular for teaching, projects and custom builds.

Would you recommend starting with one of those before moving onto an SW200?

I’m happy with Sellita. The SW200 is a solid movement and straightforward to service.

ETA has the history, but I wouldn’t pay considerably more just for the ETA name.

I’ve been looking more closely at Swiss movements lately, particularly the ETA 2824, ETA 2892, Sellita SW200 and SW300, along with the larger Unitas-style movements.

The 2824 and SW200 seem to be the obvious workhorses. They’re widely used, relatively straightforward to service, and there seems to be a healthy supply of compatible parts. Then you have the 2892 and SW300, which are slimmer and often found in watches where case thickness and a more refined movement architecture matter.

Then there’s Unitas — particularly the 6497/6498 family — which is almost a different experience entirely. Big movement, simple layout and plenty of room to actually see what you’re doing at the bench.

For those who have worked on several of these, which do you prefer from a watchmaker’s perspective rather than simply looking at the specification sheet?

Are ETA movements still worth seeking out, or has Sellita reached the point where you’re perfectly happy choosing an SW200/SW300 instead?

I know, I know I should of added images would the make the top 10 of this brand a really good post.

I added the first the one with a image and some details with a high quality picture I will get more lately.

If you can quality can you find out for me the prices and I will too but I want to see what you find and if you can too @gizmo